Silk ties explained

Woven or printed

A woven silk tie has its pattern made in the weaving. Coloured threads are worked together on a jacquard loom, so the design is part of the cloth itself; the result has depth, a slight texture and a little more body in the knot.

A printed silk tie starts as plain silk, often a twill, with the design printed on top. Printing allows fine detail and many colours, which suits florals, paisleys and pictures, and the tie is lighter, with a softer knot.

Neither is better. Woven ties have more presence and suit business and winter; printed ties are lighter and livelier, and carry pictures best.

Satin, twill and herringbone

Plain silk can be woven several ways, and the weave changes both the look of the tie and its formality.

Satin is the dressiest, smooth and bright — the cloth of the black satin bow tie. Twill is the everyday weave and the usual cloth of the silk cravat. Herringbone gives a plain tie texture, so a navy herringbone goes with tweed as happily as with worsted.

Knitted silk

Knitted ties are knitted from silk thread rather than woven, with a square end and a width of about 7cm. They have an open, nubbly texture and tie a small, firm knot.

They belong with odd jackets, tweed, flannel and button-down shirts rather than a sharp business suit, and they travel well. Tie them with a four-in-hand, never a Windsor, and roll them for storage rather than hanging them.

If you are starting with one, navy or olive will go with more of your wardrobe than you would expect.

Wool and polyester

Wool-rich ties are matt, soft and warm-looking, the natural partner for tweed, flannel and corduroy. A plain moss green wool-rich tie is as much a part of the country wardrobe as a waxed jacket.

Polyester ties are hard-wearing, easy to clean and hold their colour, which is why they are chosen for corporate ties and uniforms, where many men wear the same tie every day. A ribbed polyester tie will take a working week that would tire silk.

For a wedding, an interview or a present, silk is still the cloth.

What is inside a tie

A tie is more than its outer silk. Most have an interlining — a strip of wool, cotton or a blend sewn inside — which gives the tie its body and decides how heavy it feels and how the knot sits. Too thin and the knot is limp; too thick and it sits like a fist.

The tipping is the fabric facing the back of each end, in the tie’s own silk or a contrasting one; people often call it the lining. It finishes the tips neatly and helps them lie flat.

How to judge a tie

You can tell a good deal about a tie in the first minute you hold it.

• It hangs straight. Hold it up by the narrow end and let it fall. A tie that corkscrews was cut or sewn off true, and will never hang quite right.
• It is cut on the bias. Silk ties are cut diagonally across the cloth, so they bend round the neck and spring back flat afterwards.
• The knot holds. A good tie forms a firm knot that stays where you put it and takes a dimple without fuss.
• The slip stitch gives. Many good ties are sewn down the back with one long, loose stitch, often with a little slack thread at the end, so the tie can flex and recover. Leave that thread alone.
• There is a keeper. A loop on the back of the wide blade holds the narrow end in place, so the tie stays tidy all day.

Most Soprano silk ties are 8cm wide and 148cm long, with slim ties at about 5.5–6.5cm. For what suits your build, see the tie width and length guide.