How to care for a silk tie

Silk is strong, but a tie is a delicate thing — cut on the bias, shaped by the lining inside it, and easily twisted, creased or marked. Treat it kindly and it will outlast the suit.

Untie it properly

Undo the knot by reversing the way you tied it. Pulling the narrow end back through the knot — the quick way — twists the lining, stretches the silk and leaves a crease that never quite goes.

1. 1

   Ease the knot loose with a finger behind it, without tugging either end.

2. 2

   Undo the knot by reversing the steps you tied it with, until both ends hang free.

3. 3

   Take the tie off and smooth it flat with your hand, blade and tail.

4. 4

   Hang it over a tie rail or a smooth hanger, or roll it loosely from the narrow end.

5. 5

   Give it a day’s rest before you wear it again.

A day off between wears lets the creases from the knot fall out on their own. A man who wears a tie every day needs at least two, and five is better.

Hang it or roll it

Silk ties are happy either way. Hang them over a tie rail or a padded hanger with room between them, or roll each one loosely from the narrow end, with the wide blade outermost, and stand it on its edge in a drawer.

Never leave a tie knotted on the hanger to save time in the morning. The knot sets, and so do the creases.

Knitted ties are the exception: always roll them or lay them flat. Hung up, their own weight pulls them long and thin, and they don’t recover.

Creases: steam, don’t iron

If the creases haven’t gone after a day’s rest, steam them out. Hang the tie in the bathroom while you shower, or hold a hand steamer a few centimetres away and pass it along the tie, then leave it hanging straight to dry. Give it an hour before you knot it; damp silk creases easily.

If you must iron, use the coolest setting, lay a cotton cloth over the tie and press lightly, without sliding the iron. Never iron silk directly: a hot iron flattens the rolled edges and can leave a shine that doesn’t come out.

Stains

Act quickly and gently. Blot — don’t rub — with a clean white cloth or napkin, working from the edge of the mark inwards so it doesn’t spread. Rubbing breaks the surface of the silk and leaves a pale patch that is often worse than the stain.

Water can leave a ring on silk, so go sparingly with it, and test anything on the back of the narrow end first. For grease, wine or anything more than a drop, take the tie to a good dry cleaner and say what the stain is.

Dry clean sparingly. Each clean and press takes a little life out of a tie — the edges flatten and the silk dulls — so keep it for stains, not routine.

Travel and storage

For travel, roll each tie loosely and tuck it inside a shirt collar or a spare shoe, or use a tie case, where nothing heavy can crush it. Unroll and hang it as soon as you arrive. Pocket squares travel flat, folded once, between the shirts.

At home, keep ties out of strong sunlight, which fades silk, and watch for moths, which are fond of wool and knitted ties. A cedar block in the drawer helps; so does wearing them.

Pocket squares and braces

Take a pocket square out of the jacket at the end of the day — a fold left in for weeks becomes permanent. Follow the care label; where a silk square may be washed, do it by hand in cool water with a little mild soap, roll it in a towel to dry, and press it through a cloth on a low heat.

Cotton pocket squares are easier and usually wash well — check the label — and they press best while slightly damp. Never wring silk.

Braces last longest if you unclip or unbutton them rather than shrugging them off with the trousers, and hang them by the back so the elastic isn’t stretched. Keep leather ends dry and give them a little leather balm now and then; more in how to wear braces.